The hours of operation (Tue-Sat from 11:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.) are noteworthy as well.

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Herb-marinated flatiron steak with smoked bone marrow butter

The following article appears in the August 2022 issue of St. Louis Magazine, under the title of "Westward Bound."

"It tastes like your neighborhood burned and somebody started a tire fire on the ashes.” That’s how one of the premiere Scotch whiskeys available at Westchester was described by an owner of the new Chesterfield restaurant.

Well, OK. Count us in. After having our palate cosseted and flattered for the past hour or so, we were up for a challenge. Already, we had worked our way through a morel-studded dish of fettuccini, some fearsomely decadent potatoes fried in duck fat, and smoked salmon with lemon cream cheese. And that was just the starters.

Westchester opened earlier this year in a nondescript strip mall. The pedestrian setting belies the caliber of the place. Inside, it’s intimate, with dark walls, ceiling baffles that moderate noise, and tables arranged to be simultaneously cozy and convivial. Candle-like tabletop lighting lends a subdued air of cool. Artsy photos of music venues, from Red Rocks to the Grand Ole Opry, decorate the walls. The polished bar is already dotted with patrons early on a weekday evening. Others join the fray as the night goes on, as Westchester serves dinner until 11 p.m.

There are seven main courses. None of them miss; all are exquisitely composed. The caramelized skin of a grilled chicken promises a juicy interior; the bird’s plated beside a bright panzanella with brilliant red tomatoes, along with green beans and red onions, as well as a slab of hearty grilled bread. It’s an artistic composition that’s visually arresting. Flat-iron steak is sliced, with the center rose-bright and plated alongside whipped potatoes and tender asparagus shanks. Marrow butter accompanies the meat, adding luster and depth. A flame-burnished filet mignon sports a pillow of smooth, buttery potatoes and a glistening, syrupy demi-glace, which reflects the skill of a kitchen that knows its sauces.

A word here about portions: Most Midwesterners prefer loaded plates, rather than minimalist chic, and expect to leave a dinner full. Places like Westchester understand that. Starters here would make for a full lunch; they invite—demand—sharing at dinner.

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Scottish smoked salmon with whipped lemon cream cheese and rye crostini.

Fettuccini is swirled in a cream Alfredo-type sauce with thumb-size morels, the earthy flavors of fungus and pasta intermingled. It’s seriously rich, with the pasta having exactly the right bite. Nothing bad ever emerged from hot duck fat, and that’s particularly true for the Duck Fat Truffle Fries: crisp, thin-sliced potatoes ideal for swiping up the peppercorn aioli. The Smoked Salmon Plate arrives with swirled roses of smoked salmon slices, arranged with capers and red onion nibbles, piled on rye crostinis.

Restaurants like Westchester are usually labeled “American” or “contemporary,” a lazy way of describing places for chefs who create “I like this, and I bet others will too” menus. It’s a good bet that the results will be lovely. Take the halibut, for instance. It’s one of those fishes with firm, snowy flesh that benefit from minimal preparation. Here, it’s pan-roasted, the crust exquisite, without any saucing or razzamatazz. A scoop of farro nubbins lies beneath it, along with baby carrots and green beans. The fish remains the proper star of the dish, though.

Next time you’re in Myrtle, Missouri, go just past the Myrtle Fertilizer, Feed & Seed to Newman Farm, where the happiest Berkshire pigs in the world live, and you can see what will eventually be on your plate at Westchester. A gloriously thick, double-boned chop arrives glossy with a bourbon barbecue glaze. It’s to pork what Reese’s are to candy—the sine qua non of swine.

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Duck fat fries with spicy ketchup and special sauce.

Attention to seasonal ingredients is given at so many restaurants but, refreshingly, isn’t a fetish here. Our server mentioned the wrinkled thumbs of morels in that spectacular fettuccini were the last of the year’s supply but added that parsnips were coming soon, matched with a duck breast that was worth a return trip. Local sources also get a nod: Carrots, greens, tomatoes—many of the vegetables come from Lucky Dog Farms in Wentzville.

The wine list is robust and Cab heavy, with few bargains. The whiskey and Scotch offerings are fairly remarkable. Westchester’s a splendid place to stop by after work for dinner, sitting at the bar and sampling your way through the selection.

We tried the aforementioned charmingly described Scotch whiskey. Tire fire conflagrations aside, it was rich, pencil-shaving peaty, distant-autumn-fire smoky. As with everything else at Westchester, it’s worth more visits.

127 Chesterfield Towne Center , St Louis , Missouri 63005

HoursTue-Sat: 11:30 a.m. - 11 p.m.

P.O. BOX 191606 St. Louis, MO 63119 314-918-3000

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